Real Avid Master-Fit Free Float Barrel Nut Wrench

You name the multi-wrench and this part is the part that gets broken on all of them. Magpul? Broken. Caldwell, broken, all the cheap ones broke. I can use my sexy old Cornwell, Mac, Matco, or Snappy On breaker bar and finish it off with a Snappy On, Proto, O.F. Mossberg, CDI, Matco, Mac, Craftsman, Harbor Fright, or other dial, click or beep torque wrench. Even an old used cheap K Mart beam style wrench found at any estate or garage sale works just fine with the 35-80 foot pound range for barrel nuts. Those old beam style wrenches are so simple you can't screw them up! We used those for years. Remember to be sure and click this specialty crow's foot wrench onto the torque wrench with the opening at 90 degrees to the handle of the wrench, or else your torque readings are totally meaningless. I almost knocked off a star because I'd like to see a little more protrusion of the pins, and they are kind of expensive for what you get. They are a lot less clunky to use than working a torque wrench with a big honking multi-wrench clicked onto to it. That is an accidental ding, scratch or worse waiting to happen. This special crow's foot wrench is how the true high end professional mechanics work on stuff, ranging from cars and truck to printing presses, sugar mills and million dollar injection molding tools inside of a factory. This looks really bad*** on my Matco breaker, and looks really cool on the CDI torque wrenches. We can even keep a log of what each barrel was torqued to with one of the CDI wrenches that is hooked up to the computer. For removing barrel nuts, just use the breaker bars. DO NOT TEAR UP YOUR TORQUE WRENCHES removing nuts. That taper along side the square hole allows me to wedge a screwdriver in there if the crow's foot wrench gets stuck on the torque wrench. It also helps me grasp it to pull it off too. Very nicely done! The shape was very well thought out for function and it is also visually appealing too. KUDOS! Nice finish on it too!